Dior loves colour, as it once again confirms in a manner highlighting its inimitably bold and contemporary elegance. In its pre-Baselworld presentation at its Parisian headquarters, the brand unveiled a dozen different models characterised by unbridled chromatic creativity, mainly intended for women.
In an increasingly colourless world, where people still tend to think black is the dressiest option and that gold is a necessary ingredient in luxury, the only caveat with the new line-up would be that the burst of vibrant hues for Her is not matched by the still overly-restrained models for Him. As if men were only entitled to black and grey, yielding consistently elegant but sometimes disappointing results.
The Chiffre travels the world
The new Chiffre Rouge C05 is entirely in step with the Dior universe. Demonstrating a salutary propensity to maintain a reasonable 38 mm diameter, together with optimal readability, a sense of understatement and useful functions, this model already proves a worthy heir to the legacy of Hedi Slimane.
The C05 provides a 24-hour GMT display with a central hand sweeping over a particularly sophisticated dial. The collection’s identity codes have nonetheless been discreetly shaken up and informed connoisseurs will note three differences. The applied rectangular hour-markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock are a first for the collection; the date shown in red numbers (as one would expect) is framed by two diagonal lines that are also making their debut; and lastly the GMT crown takes up a new position at 10 o’clock.
The only complaint is that the two large hands are not coated with a luminescent substance, despite the fact that the structure would make this entirely possible. While such an option might have partially masked the dual-time display, its absence makes the C05 invisible at night – a real pity for a model intended for keen travellers with their constant nocturnal time-zone crossings.
The Chiffre Rouge 05 will be issued in a 100-piece limited edition in steel only and fitted with a perforated calfskin strap, available in stores for 6,200 euros as of September.
As far as women’s watches are concerned, they are a true festival of colours, a wonderful whirl of fascinating hues. For daily wear, Dior has brilliantly reinterpreted its Mini D de Dior models launched in 2009. Five new references now light up the rainbow colour palette with admirable elegance and dynamism. The two first feature a discreet black mother-of-pearl dial framed by a gem-set bezel. Their difference lies in a brand-new strap graced with subtly graded shades of blue, pink, yellow and purple. These summery and vibrant new 19 mm Mini D de Dior watches measuring a dainty 19 mm will be available from May onwards at 3,700 euros.
The last three models are decidedly more sophisticated. The 2015 collection is distinguished for the first time by its associated colours: the first model appears dressed in blue lizard skin matched by a sapphire dial and bezel; the second in red lizard skin complementing a ruby and pink sapphire tandem; while the third features a green strap echoing the emerald dial and tsavorite garnet dial. These white gold Mini D de Dior creations will carry price tags of between 25,000 and 30,000 euros.
Horological prêt-à-porter and haute couture evening wear
Could Dior be crossing the Rubicon of watch fashion? It would certainly seem so in light of the latest Dior 8 Montaigne collection, in which the two models presented and evocatively named “Spring – Summer” and “Autumn – Winter” make no secret of their origins. While there is nothing fundamentally new about them, their straps are graced with an unusual pairing of alligator leather and rubber. Their different shades enable Dior to keep existing collections alive by combining various colours – in this case seasonal ones.
On the Grand Soir and Grand Bal front, Dior unveils a new creation christened “Grand Soir Frou-Frou”. Its mother-of-pearl dial is sculpted in undulating gold sprinkled with diamonds. The one-of-a-kind creation will be complemented at Basel by five other models, each equally unique in their own way.
Dior rounds off this exceptional runway show with new interpretations of its famous Grand Bal inverted calibre, whose oscillating weight is adorned with a mother-of-pearl sunburst pleated-effect which, like the Frou-Frou, offers a horological take on the texture of Dior’s cherished fabrics. A blue lacquered version will retail for 19,000 euros, and the green-lacquered interpretation for 13,500. Two new Grand Bal Résille 38 mm and 33 mm versions bring up the rear. In 2015, they will appear fitted with a lizard skin strap and a ceramic and diamond double bezel.