The Premier collection is welcoming two new Lace 31 mm models, which as their name implies give pride of place to mother-of-pearl lacework. Successful new additions to an ever more perilously extended collection.
Harry Winston is increasing the size of its diamonds and reducing that of its cases. The new Lace timepieces that are joining the jeweller’s Premier collection admirably embody the subtle aesthetic balance of its watch ranges.
Small diamonds, great brilliance
Two years ago, the brand management decided to upsize the diamonds on its gemset model, the goal being to accentuate the historical strength of the House. A tricky exercise, since the natural rise in carat weight quite mechanically also results in higher prices – a variable that the brand is simultaneously striving to contain or even reduce.
These two new Lace models come in an unusual diameter: 31 mm. This could well have led to an imbalance between larger diamonds and smaller dimensions, but the result is actually quite the opposite. The sparkle of the stones makes the Lace timepieces appear considerably wider than 31 mm, all the while safeguarding the concrete advantages of this modest diameter, chief among which are discretion and comfort.
When it comes to the dial, Harry Winston has gone all out for mother-of-pearl. The pink gold model doubtless provides the more stunning sight, with its dial composed of two layers of mother-of-pearl meticulously cut to the nearest micron and fitted one on top of the other. There is no fastening point and only the pressure of the case actually holds the two cut-outs together.
The white gold model is adorned with a white mother-of-pearl dial on a sunburst black dial. This model highlights the subtle contrast between the pristine brilliance of the diamonds, the glistening grey of the white mother-of-pearl, and the gleam of white gold.
The pink gold model showcases a far richer colour palette ranging from the warm red hues of the gold, via the shimmering blue, green and pink reflections of the Tahitian pearl dial base, through to the glittering white diamonds. This creation epitomises the significance of the Harry Winston approach to revealing every nuance of a material and playing with colours. The face of the Lace will never be exactly the same, depending on how the light strikes it, while the complexity of the motifs is an endless source of fascination reflecting the brand’s legendary free-spirited creativity.
An extremely broad collection
The Lace 31 mm is powered by a quartz calibre on an ETA base. The House makes no secret of its determination to increase the number of mechanically-driven models within a collection that currently features a relatively equal share of both types of movement.
There is however the issue of ensuring the coherence of collection now comprising no less than 42 models and which is in fact Harry Winston’s largest. Some creations are clearly oriented towards handcrafts, while others feature a more restrained or even conventional personality. The unity of this large family is nonetheless ensured by the geometrical design of the case with its three arches at noon and 6 o’clock serving to fasten the watch to its strap.